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Comment by hermitcrab

7 hours ago

(Based on my recollections from ~25 years ago) Mera peak is the second highest non-technical peak in the world (the highest is in S America) at ~21,000 feet. Meaning you can basically walk to the top (no real climbing, but we were roped together for the final section, in case of crevasses). But the altitude and weather makes it much tougher than the equivalent trek near sea level. The summit day was incredibly gruelling, the hardest thing I have ever done physically. So you need a decent level of fitness.

If you are significantly overweight or have dodgy knees, then it isn't for you. You are moderately fit and prepared to do some long walks in preparation, then you are probably fine. If you aren't sure, maybe go on one of the lower level treks and see how you get on.

Isn't Cho Oyu (around 8201m) the highest non-technical peak in the world? Ice wall can be often bypassed/traversed around. Aconcagua is ~1.25km shorter.

Haven't been up Mera, but back in the day, did do Island Peak which I understand is more difficult these days because of some glacial fissures.

That altitude was about my limit even at the time. I had done a couple of previous Nepal treks to fairly high altitude but not actual climbs and had done a lower altitude glacier climbing school in the US northwest.

There are higher non-technical peaks in South America. Ojos del Salado at well over 22,000 feet comes to mind as a peak that is often considered non-technical. Also an active volcano which is cool.

> the highest is in S America

Aconcagua in Argentina. It's on my 'things to do if in the area' list. The nearest airport is only a 200km drive on a tarmac road away and then a 40km trek to the peak! Although the 4km altitude gain is likely to be harder than the distance.

  • Mera Peak is in an amazing location, you can see a number of the world's highest peaks from the top (if it's clear), including Everest. IIRC Aconcagua doesn't have quite as much going for it, apart from being slightly higher. Each to their own.

    BTW Everest is so steep that it doesn't have a lot of snow on it compared to other high mountains. So it is not even a very attractive mountain (subjective obviously).

  • Yes the altitude is harder than the distance :) Aconcagua has cca 30% summit rate mainly due to frequent high winds which make windchill temperatures go to -30s C easily. We had to turn back ourselves up there, nobody summited for whole week due to high winds.