Comment by zdw
11 hours ago
This is the most esoteric post I've seen on HN in a while.
How many museum curators who need non-yellowing flexible thermoplastic are there on here?
11 hours ago
This is the most esoteric post I've seen on HN in a while.
How many museum curators who need non-yellowing flexible thermoplastic are there on here?
This post has exactly zero relevance to my professional career or personal projects, and this is exactly the type of esoteric content I love about HN!
Oil painter here, this is news to me and if it doesn't dissolve in gamsol this is EXACTLY what I've been looking for for about 2 years.
I followed the link to flexographic ink, and now I'm wondering whether boutique fine art flexography could or should exist. Like lithography, but more plastic.
What's the application?
It is used to strengthen materials. For example if plaster has crumbled, or the paint on a canvas has become flakey, or wood rotten, Paraloid B-72 can be used to hold everything together. The issue is that generally it is not reversible. Therefore one should always look at varnishes that can easily be removed and reapplied, but sometimes only Paraloid can hold everything toghther.
Yes, but that esoteric nature is the charm of HN at its best.
This is unusual as posts go, but it's not totally unreasonable and even though I wouldn't have an immediate use, it's fascinating, leads to further exploration (like another commenter mentioning the inks) and knowledge gets filed away.
I try to remember posts like this when people are less positive about HN! :-)
I'm especially curious about the high upvote count, considering the Wikipedia article as well as the substance in general is not that interesting IMHO.
I use paraloid all the time, a bit surprised to see it posted here but I’ll support it.
I'm new to it and having trouble finding guides:
- how do I apply it as a coating? I want it to be ~ 1/6" to 1/8" thick and as hard as possible
- will turpentine dissolve or soften it?
It's a relatively soft plastic and I don't think you can realistically build a uniform, good-looking layer that's 1/8" thick, if that's what you mean. If you need that thickness, high hardness, and nice appearance, I think your best bet is just a sheet of glass or acrylic on top.
It can be used as protective varnish, but that would be a very thin layer, probably 0.1 mm or something like that.
1 reply →
I found a couple:
https://resources.culturalheritage.org/osg-postprints/wp-con...
https://www.zoicpaleotech.com/pages/paraloid-b72-in-fossil-p...
acetone will dissolve it, dunno about turpentine.
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Purchase as crystals and dissolve in acetone or ethanol to desired concentration. It will self level based concentration, allow to evaporate before applying next layer
Not many, but there are a few amateur and professional musicians here benefitting from better piano hammers made possible by Paraloid B-72!
Note: I thought this was about Polaroid, not Paraloid, at first!
The issue is that it does yellow but after 25 to 50 years. The challange is that it is very difficult to reverse.
On the restoration of my house I allow its use on very specific cases. It very useful for example in strengthening wood that has rotten. Sometimes Paraloid is the only thing that can be used, but it needs to be used with care.
You can see the research here : https://www.woodresearch.sk/wr/201104/07.pdf?utm_source=chat... and here https://www.researchgate.net/publication/400226168_Aging_Mec...
It does not turn yellow, Paraloid B66 does. B72 has a low Tg, 40°C, so it can soften and creep when warm
It does discolor over time. The point is that one should be thinking about the impact over centuries and not years. It needs to be used with care and other alternatives need to always be considered.
For a painting or building that has survived for half a millennium we need use methods that will preserve the object for another 500 years.
Too many times I hear people say we will just use Paraloid.
Didn't really know of the different 9(!) versions of it. Thanks for pointing it out.
Agreed. My gf uses it regularly as she's a furniture restorer, finding the definition here it's a bit of a surprise, though. Great, unique material.
I've done some DIY piano maintenance and I saw what was presumably this available to firm up the hammers. My piano needs them softened, though.
Yes it mentioned firming piano hammers in the article. From what I remember, a piano hammer is a shaped piece of wood (or several?) with a leather strip around the striker part? What is the difference for you between hardening and softening the hammer, and how would it be done with this .. is it penetrating? (acetone base would enable that, it is used for carrying chemicals through a surface). Could you soften the hammers by replacing the leather strips, or soaking them to loosen & expand the presumably compacted fibres?
In my wider life in the UK, speaking to people associated with pianos (from a piano tuner, to school premises teams), it is often not worth the commercial expense to repair old pianos unless they are of particularly good quality or have some sentimental value.
The hammer is felt around wood. You don't replace the felt, you'd replace the entire hammer, but then you'd likely want to replace all the hammers to get matching sound anyway.
There's a solution you can add to soften the hammers, but I don't know what chemical it is or how well it works since I haven't tried it yet; you can also needle the felt to fluff it up.
They should make non-yellowing transparent phone cases out of this stuff.