Does DolbyVision or HDR10+ content work in this setup? My understanding is that they won't.
I also got a lot of stuttering issue with 1080p x265 content last time I tried hooking up the Pi with my TV.
I would love to get Kodi working with HDR10+ on my Samsung TV without buying those expensive android boxes (which are very expensive and difficult to obtain in my region anyway).
> Does DolbyVision or HDR10+ content work in this setup?
I don't know what these things are but I just plug the hdmi cable to my laptop and use a wireless keyboard+trackpad combo[1] as a remote. Never understood the need for a "TV" interface or TV box. I tried Kodi and its alternatives years ago but never found them to be faster to load the apps and browse for content than loading the netflix/prime/hbo web pages in a tab or freetube in a dedicated window, switching tabs or virtual desktops is usually faster than switching apps on one of these interfaces, same for browsing on your filesystem for local content or run a music app.
But what do I know, I am a simple person who likes simple solutions.
[1]the microsoft one that look nearly the same as a Logitech K400. Not sure if it is still sold.
Both of those are HDR standards. If you're using g a good OLED or even mini LED with enough zones, it makes a pretty big difference in the visuals. The support for both are usually locked down unless you're using a compatible device.
I mean: I can be very happy just plugging my laptop into the TV and using mplayer from the command line. That works great for me.
But sometimes, other people (often referred to as "family" and/or "friends") come by and hang out. A TV-centric interface driven by a simple remote is more familiar and easier for them to understand.
(And frankly, I don't want anyone but me futzing around with my laptop at all, ever.)
I hit the same stuttering with 1080p x265 on a Pi 4 and it turned out to be software decoding; once hardware HEVC decode was actually enabled in Kodi it played 1080p smoothly, though 10 bit content was hit or miss. HDR10+ is the harder wall: Kodi on Linux basically drops the dynamic metadata and passes plain HDR10, so your Samsung just applies static tone mapping and you lose the peak brightness tricks. If most of your library is HDR10+ rips, a used Shield may still cost less than fighting this despite the price. Curious what your source files are, because remuxes that keep the HDR10 base layer look fine, it is only the dynamic metadata you lose.
I have a mid range samsung (that I bought without much research due to some circumstances) on which HDR does not look good at all, way too dark, but HDR10+ is just amazing.
So right now I am using Jellyfin with HDR10+ web-dls (when I can find them) and blu-ray remuxes for old stuff. But Jellyfin triggers transcodes for vobsub and FLAC/DTS audio which I am trying to avoid if possible.
Kodi on my older Sony Android direct played anything I threw at it flawlessly for years. So the only option I found was finding or importing a decent android box, which is a bit difficult and expensive in my region.
Can Kodi use widevine yet? I did this years ago, but it was a game of cat and mouse I kept losing. Right now we just plug a linux laptop into the TV via HDMI.
Where do you even buy dumb tv at a decent price these days?
Sceptre still sells dumb TVs in the US.
Bummer I’m not in the us :)
1 reply →
https://celloelectronics.com/collections/non-smart-tvs
I got one two weeks ago when my previous dumb tv packed up after 14 years. No complaints so far.
Interesting that smart-less TVs cap out at about 43” overseas as well.
A yard sale.
Not looking for a CRT my dude but thanks
2 replies →
Does DolbyVision or HDR10+ content work in this setup? My understanding is that they won't. I also got a lot of stuttering issue with 1080p x265 content last time I tried hooking up the Pi with my TV.
I would love to get Kodi working with HDR10+ on my Samsung TV without buying those expensive android boxes (which are very expensive and difficult to obtain in my region anyway).
> Does DolbyVision or HDR10+ content work in this setup?
I don't know what these things are but I just plug the hdmi cable to my laptop and use a wireless keyboard+trackpad combo[1] as a remote. Never understood the need for a "TV" interface or TV box. I tried Kodi and its alternatives years ago but never found them to be faster to load the apps and browse for content than loading the netflix/prime/hbo web pages in a tab or freetube in a dedicated window, switching tabs or virtual desktops is usually faster than switching apps on one of these interfaces, same for browsing on your filesystem for local content or run a music app.
But what do I know, I am a simple person who likes simple solutions.
[1]the microsoft one that look nearly the same as a Logitech K400. Not sure if it is still sold.
Both of those are HDR standards. If you're using g a good OLED or even mini LED with enough zones, it makes a pretty big difference in the visuals. The support for both are usually locked down unless you're using a compatible device.
I mean: I can be very happy just plugging my laptop into the TV and using mplayer from the command line. That works great for me.
But sometimes, other people (often referred to as "family" and/or "friends") come by and hang out. A TV-centric interface driven by a simple remote is more familiar and easier for them to understand.
(And frankly, I don't want anyone but me futzing around with my laptop at all, ever.)
1 reply →
I hit the same stuttering with 1080p x265 on a Pi 4 and it turned out to be software decoding; once hardware HEVC decode was actually enabled in Kodi it played 1080p smoothly, though 10 bit content was hit or miss. HDR10+ is the harder wall: Kodi on Linux basically drops the dynamic metadata and passes plain HDR10, so your Samsung just applies static tone mapping and you lose the peak brightness tricks. If most of your library is HDR10+ rips, a used Shield may still cost less than fighting this despite the price. Curious what your source files are, because remuxes that keep the HDR10 base layer look fine, it is only the dynamic metadata you lose.
I have a mid range samsung (that I bought without much research due to some circumstances) on which HDR does not look good at all, way too dark, but HDR10+ is just amazing.
So right now I am using Jellyfin with HDR10+ web-dls (when I can find them) and blu-ray remuxes for old stuff. But Jellyfin triggers transcodes for vobsub and FLAC/DTS audio which I am trying to avoid if possible. Kodi on my older Sony Android direct played anything I threw at it flawlessly for years. So the only option I found was finding or importing a decent android box, which is a bit difficult and expensive in my region.
Can Kodi use widevine yet? I did this years ago, but it was a game of cat and mouse I kept losing. Right now we just plug a linux laptop into the TV via HDMI.
This is the way.
[dead]