Comment by Joel_Mckay
8 hours ago
Consider water-soluble resin, but always use 99% IPA to wash. First, dab with tissue paper to soak up drips, wash in used/dirty IPA, and then wash again in clean IPA. This will remove most if not all uncured resin. You should be able to hit within 0.1mm repeatability with anti-aliasing turned off.
Finally, the UVA cure chamber must be able to kick off the resin. After 15min on each side, then wash the build with a hand cleaner. Place all PPE like gloves in a clear bag, and leave in the sun on both sides for 1 hour.
"USD700" is almost double what a mid-sized Creality printer costs, and aftermarket 3M flex plate kits are about $30.
Without a garage/outdoor/lab work-space people shouldn't buy stinky resin printers. =3
The water soluble resins smell even worse in my option somehow this was counterintuitive for me.
Depends on the brand, but low-viscosity resins tend to print easier, have less bubbles, and drip clean a little better.
The bad liquid-resin odor people detect is often unrelated to VOC levels, which is why activated-charcoal filters are mostly useless from an exposure standpoint. Exhausting crud outside into some ferns is the best solution for hobby printers. =3
Yeah the smell is just insane. I worked a lot with PU resins and they actually smell delicious (prolly same toxicity tho).
Is it "actually carcinogenic" or only if you use it 8 hours a day?
FWIW I run the printer in a downstairs bathroom with its own extractor fan and cure in the sun.
It's actually carcinogenic. Also, exposure can cause an allergy to resin (which makes you allergic to all sorts of everyday objects), and a single drop in your eye can cause permanent blindness.
Resin is fairly inert once fully cured + aged/dried 2 weeks, but in its uncured state PPE should always be used. The uncured resin contact with skin is known to sometimes cause autoimmune sensitivities like allergic reactions. If you ever get blisters or a rash, than you are likely no longer able to work around acrylic resins and paints.
Always protect your skin, eyes, and lungs... even when the SDS/MSDS doesn't explicitly warn of currently known possible exposure hazards.
In general, treat it the same as paint with a booth/tent, exhaust fan, and paper-lined drip pan for when(not if) the membrane perforates. If the object is small, one could also use 100% infill so it may be cleaned properly (coating prints in a automotive UV-resistant clear acrylic spray paint a few weeks later prevents yellowing, and reduces handling risks.)
Around 40% of people will get cancer in their lifetimes, and most will never know. In general, avoiding physical contact with organic solvents is a good idea, and be pleasantly surprised if it turns out to be an overly cautious decision. =3